Let’s start with the bad news – Nelson is surprisingly devoid of good pies. Take it from someone who takes such things very seriously. Yes it’s true, Nelson has a weak spot when it comes to its pie game.
Now before I offend half the cafes in town, yes there are some inspired takes on the trusty pastry classic but here I’m being quite purposeful about the definition of a pie and stick to the types of pies you can grab on the run.
The qualities of a good pie are that you can eat it without fear of a burnt mouth, runny insides that spill on your shirt and too much slippage on the pastry crumbs. When things are avoided and you’re behind the wheel devouring a good pie, the worries of the world fade into the backdrop.
Right back to Nelson, I’m going to send you to a very reliable source first with Waimea Road Bakery. This is on your way out of town and by choosing to go here you’ve decided against a trip around the scenic waterfront, but needs must eh. Waimea Road Bakery is run by a beautiful local family whose greatest personality trait is consistency –they’re open 7 days, public holidays, all day and they never run out. These are the qualities of a bakery that will never fail you. And nor does their food – pies that won’t change the world but are generous in size, have a good consistency to them and are served at the perfect temp.
If you’re looking for something a bit on the fancier side, whilst sticking to our criteria, then Rustic Cuisine is along the same stretch of road and will do you a decent coffee with a really tasty pie. Their savoury pies are sourced from another great local baker, 91 on Nile, which is also worth checking out.
From here, we have two choices, we can head straight to Motueka, the undisputed pie capital of Nelson Tasman. Or we can take a slight detour and head to possibly one of the region’s most well trafficked businesses, the Wakefield Bakery. They could probably lay claim to the freshest pies in the region as I’m sure that every time I’ve been in there, they’ve been actively refilling the cabinet as pies fly out
the door. Honestly, they do a roaring trade and for good reason, seriously good tucker. And the coffee is surprisingly good too!
Right distractions aside, it’s time to head for Motueka. You’ll want to allow plenty of time for this one – there are too many good options here.
Let’s start with the classics, enveloping us on either end of town, Motueka Bakery and the Rolling Pin Bakery . The latter just tastes like nostalgia for those of us who grew up in the town. The “can’t go wrong” cabinet, best enjoyed with a side of a cream bun or donut. Or if you’re feeling like a more balanced diet, they do the old school chickenrolls. On the other hand, we have Motueka Bakery which has become a staple on the scene, not just for pies but also their roast pork sandwiches. I really rate their satay chicken rolls too – have had a few in my time. Staying focused on the pie front, I love their Lamb Green Curry and Kumara personally but everyone has their favourite there. My father, not shy of a pie himself, rates their sausage rolls as the best in the country.
If you’re after more of a cafe experience, TOAD Hall does a range of stunning pies that are a proper square meal if that’s what you’re after. Despite their cafe status, their pricing still reflects the quantity and quality of the pie, rather than an inflated atmosphere surcharge. I personally really dig the Chicken Leek and Bacon but their more game pies are popular too. If you’re wanting to be pleased with yourself, you can get a side salad from their onsite organic market garden. Look at you go.
The two Euro-inspired bakeries in Motueka are the Patisserie Royale and the European Bakery. Both have their distinctive strengths but I tend towards the Patisserie for my pastry fix. I want to stress that you’re in good hands with either of these institutions but my love affair with the Patisserie was really solidified when I rented an office across the road from them for several years. Suffice to say, I’m still trying to move some of those treats from the waistline. Sorry Dad but Patisserie Royale does, in my humble opinion, the best sausage roll in town. I find them borderline addictive. The hardest thing about the sausage roll is that if you’re being sensible, you’ve chosen a sausage roll over a pie. But in my case, I tend to justify my way to a comboscenario with a very nice coffee, a sausage roll appetiser and the main event being a potato top or steak and cheesepie. Their quiches are also worthy of an honourary shout-out, despite not strictly fitting the criteria.
If you’ve missed all of these options or you’ve found yourself in the not particularly rare scenario of discovering everything I’ve recommended is closed, then the Top of the Town Dairy stocks a really solid range of pies and other hot food. A really decent pitstop and a great all-rounder.
If you’re passing through Riwaka, be sure to drop in one of the cafes Mrs Smiths or Little Dynamite for a pie too. These places both have good reputations but I’ve heard that top of the class goes to the Pepper steak at Mrs Smiths these days!
Now I know you’re already feeling pretty well fuelled up by now but if you happen to be making the trip over the hill to Mohua Golden Bay then I have good news for you – this little slice of paradise knows its pastries too. Once you’ve down the hill and needing something to insulate against the nausea of the drive, Top Shop Takaka has you covered. The pies are seriously good and it’s actually really nice sitting out the back of the shop on the balcony there. If you’re going deeper, I highly recommend Courthouse Cafe in Collingwood, who do outstanding grub all round, but their pies are particularly noteworthy!
Words by Johny O’Donnell
